以日本设计师为例探讨传统旗袍的改良与创新

Study on Improvement and Innovation of Traditional Chinese Cheongsam Based on the Works of Japanese Fashion Designers

阐述了中国传统旗袍的发展历程,以及旗袍的外观和内涵发生的巨大变化,总结归纳了中国传统文化的内涵和精神,并将其运用在服装设计语言中。以传统旗袍为原型,并以日本服装设计师山本耀司和三宅一生的作品为例,分析了日本传统文化在现代服装设计中的传承与应用方式,探讨了传统旗袍改良与创新的新方向。通过对日本设计大师的作品分析可以发现,无论是对于传统服装的继承还是现代时装的设计,设计师只有从本土文化出发,采取东方与西方、传统与现代、民族与世界相结合的创作手法,形成有中国特点的设计风格,才能真正被世界所认同。

This paper outlines the development history of Chinese traditional cheongsams and the great changes in the appearance and connotation of the cheongsam, then summarizes the connotation and spirit of Chinese traditional culture and applies them in costume design language. This paper takes traditional cheongsams as the prototype and takes the works of Yohji Yamamoto and lssey Miyake （Japanese fashion designers） for example to analyze inheritance and application of traditional Japanese culture in modern costume design and discuss the new directions of improvement and innovation of traditional cheongsams. It can be found through analysis of the works of Japanese design masters that regardless of inheritance of traditional costume and design of modern fashion, designers can be really approved by the world only when they start from local culture, combine the east, the west, the traditional, the modem and the nation and the world and form the design style with Chinese characteristics.