机织服装标准中纰裂性能测试分析与研究

Analysis and Research on Stitch Slipping Performance Test in Woven Garment Standard

纰裂性能是机织服装中很重要的一项物理性能,不同的机织服装产品标准中对纰裂性能的测试方法和判定都有明确规定,但是,不同标准中对于测试方法都有差异(如定负荷、判定依据等)。文章归纳现行有效的所有涉及到纰裂性能测试的服装产品标准,比较和分析不同标准关于纰裂性能测试条件的差异,以及造成不同结果的原因;并结合实验室检测纰裂性能的实践经验,对标准提出了一些修订意见;同时结合市场上不同产品的特点,讨论了纰裂性能测试条件的选择依据。

Stitch slipping performance is a very important physical property in woven garment. Different woven garment product standards have explicit regulations on test methods and judgment of stitch slipping performance. However, test methods are different in different standards （such as constant load and judgment basis）. This paper summarizes existing effective garment product standards involving stitch slipping performance test, compares and analyzes differences of different standards with respect to test conditions of stitch slipping performance and reasons of different results, puts forward some opinions on revision according to practical experience of laboratory detection of stitch slipping performance, and meanwhile discusses the basis for test conditions of stitch slipping performance.