利玛窦视野中的晚明饮食文化

The Dietary Culture of The Late Ming Dynasty in the Perspective of Matteo Ricci

意大利耶稣会士利玛窦在明神宗万历年间来到中国,其遗著《利玛窦中国札记》一书记述了他在中国28年的传教生涯。以一个西方传教士的眼光,利玛窦仔细观察了历史悠久的中华文化,他对晚明的饮食文化亦表现出浓厚的兴趣。此书记载有晚明时期中国种类繁多的食物原料,与欧洲迥异的茶酒饮料,别具一格的瓷器、筷子等食器和煤这种在中国北方大量使用的燃料。他在中国传教的过程中,广泛结交上层官员和士大夫,亲身体验了晚明的各种宴会,对中国宴会的程序及各种礼仪相当熟悉,对当时中欧宴会的差异作了不自觉的比较。他在中国接触到了儒教、道教、佛教、伊斯兰教、犹太教和基督教等宗教,对晚明时期中国的宗教饮食习俗也有较详细的记述。利玛窦对晚明饮食文化所作的详细客观的记述,对于弄清中国饮食文化中的不少问题具有重要的参考价值。

Matteo Ric ong in Ming Dynasty ci, an Italian Jesuit, came to China during the Wanli period of Emperor of Shenz- His posthumous book China Note by Matteo Ricci recorded his missionary career for 28 years in China. By a western missionary＇ s judgment, Matteo Ricci carefully observed the histori- cal Chinese culture, and especially showed a keen interest in the dietary culture. Such information about the late Ming Dynasty were recorded in this book as all kinds of food raw materials, the liquor drinks in- cluding tea and wine which are different from the European drinks, the distinctive dining utensils consis- ting of porcelain, chopsticks, and coal extensively used as fuel in the northern part of China. In the process of Matteo Ricci＇ s missionary work, he widely made friends with top officials and the literati. Meanwhile he experienced various kinds of banquets, and quite familiar with procedures and etiquettes of those banquets. Also he made conscious comparison between Chinese banquets and ones in Europe. Mat- teo Ricci contacted with many religions, such as Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism, Islam, Judaism and Christianity. He wrote down the religious dietary customs in details in his book. The detailed and objec- tive description of dietary culture in the late Ming Dynasty is of important reference value in clarifying many problems about Chinese dietary culture.