天然黄色蚕丝织物脱胶工艺与色差之间的关系研究

Study on Relationship between Degumming Process and Chromatic Aberration of Natural Yellow Silk Fabrics

为解决天然彩色蚕丝织物传统脱胶工艺产生的颜色流失严重问题,选择天然黄色蚕丝织物作为研究对象,采用一种新的脱胶工艺对其进行脱胶处理,讨论织物脱胶率与脱胶时间的关系,并就织物脱胶前后的色差进行了分析。实验结果表明:随着脱胶时间的增加,织物的剩余含胶率逐渐减少,呈近似指数关系;脱胶前后织物的色差与脱胶率也呈现良好的相关性,随着脱胶率的增加,色差先减小,再增大。控制不同的脱胶时间,可以得到不同含胶率和天然色泽的黄色蚕丝织物,在尽可能保留其天然颜色的同时,为研究和开发不同风格的天然彩色蚕丝织物奠定色彩和工艺基础。

To solve the problem of serious color loss produced by traditional degumming process of natural colorful silk fabrics, this study selects natural yellow silk fabrics as research object, uses a new degumming process for its degumming processing, discusses the relationship between degumming rate of fabrics and degumming time and analyzes chromatic aberration before and after degumming. The experimental result shows that, with the increase of degumming time, the residual gum content of fabrics gradually decreases. They approximately have an exponential relationship. Chromatic aberration of fabrics before and after degumming and degumming rate also have a good correlation. With the increase of degumming rate, chromatic aberration first reduces and then increases. Yellow silk fabrics of different gum contents and natural color can be obtained through the control of different degumming time. This study lays a foundation of color and process for studying and developing natural colorful silk fabrics of different styles while maintaining its natural color.