连帽领结构设计方法的优化

Optimization on Design Method of Hooded Collar Structure

连帽领是一种兼具帽子功能的衣领造型,在服装市场上的使用率日趋增高.但目前关于连帽领结构设计的研究较少,其结构设计方法更多依赖于打板师的经验,制图方法存在较大的随意性,没有形成完整的理论体系.依据人体头部特征,进行贴体连帽领结构设计实验,分析帽高、帽宽对领座的影响;进行连帽领下移量变化实验,建立了基础领窝下领座的数学模型;进行领窝变化实验,分析后领窝开深、领窝开宽、前领窝开深对连帽领下移量和领座的影响,建立变化领窝下领座的数学模型.研究结果优化了连帽领的结构设计方法,为连帽领结构设计提供理论依据.

Hooded collar is a kind of collar shape with the hat function and is increasingly used in the apparel market. But up to now, few studies have been done on the hooded collar structure. Most structure design methods are dependent on the experience of pattern makers. There is a lot of randomness on drafting methods, not forming a complete theoretical system. Based on the feature of human head, body-fitted hooded collar structure design experiments were conducted to analyse the effects of collar＇s height and width on the hooded collar stand; through the downward value change experiments, the mathematical model of the collar stand of hooded collar based on the basic neckline was established; experiments on the change of neckline were done to analyze impacts of back neckline open depth, neckline open width and front neckline open depth on the downward value of the hooded collar and collar stand, and the mathematical model of the collar stand of hooded collar based on the change neckline was established. Therefore, the structure design method of hooded collar was optimized to provide a theoretical basis for the hooded collar structure design.