香云纱的染整工艺技术及发展

Dyeing technology and development of gambiered canton gauze silk

香云纱是一种纯天然的以植物染色并形成涂层的桑蚕丝,以野生植物薯莨块茎为染料,经过反复地浸染与暴晒后,涂以特定的河泥,形成正面黑色发亮,底面呈咖啡色的真丝产品.介绍了香云纱的染整工艺和生产过程,探讨了天然染色过程的化学机理,提出了香云纱色彩多样化的发展设想.

Gambiered canton gauze silk is a kind of mulberry silk dyed and coated with natural plant. The Gambiered canton gauze silk is produced using tuber of wild shuliang as dye, through repeated dipping and sun burning, coating the front side with special mud, and the surface of fabric formed a black coat, while the back side was brown. The dyeing and finishing process and production process of gambiered canton gauze silk was introduced. The chemical mechanism of this ancient fabrics with natural dyeing process was discussed, and the development tentative idea of color diversity of gambiered canton gauze silk was put forward.