近代马面裙形制类型与演变的实例分析

Study on molding types and development of horse-face skirt in modern times

通过对我国近代马面裙的实物分析,研究马面裙的测量数据,以展现该时期马面裙的特征和演变规律。以江南大学民间服饰传习馆、上海艺风堂博物馆中的馆藏马面裙为基础,剖析了民国时期鱼鳞百褶裙、凤尾裙、襕干裙等的形制结构及工艺方法。论述了我国裙装由包含大量褶裥的离体式廓形发展至包含少量省褶的合体式廓形、由繁缛的多片式裙装版型发展至简洁的四片式裙装版型、由二维至三维的裁剪方式的变化脉络。通过对鱼鳞百褶裙、襕干裙、凤尾裙及合拢的裙进行实物研究,对其形制结构进行了分析,逐步剖析在"西风东渐"的影响下,传统马面裙形制结构变迁的过程。

The purpose of this research is to display the characteristics and development rule of the horse-face skirts in modern China through empirical analysis and parameter measurement of them. On the basis of various kinds of Chinese horse-face skirts collected in the Folk Costume Exhibition and Learning Hall of Jiangnan University and Shanghai Yifengtang Museum, this thesis analyzes the structure and the tailor technology of the hundred-pleat skirt, one-piece dress and the phoenix-tail skirt in the early republic of China. It points out that the skirt profile from loose type with more pleats to fit type with less pleats, the pattern from an over-elaborate skirt cut in many pieces to a simple skirt cut in four pieces, the tailoring from the traditional two-dimensional molding to western three-dimensional ways. The empirical study of the hundred-pleat skirt, phoenix-tail skirt, one-piece dress and cylinder-type waist skirts has analyzed their molding and structure, along with the development process of the molding and structure of the traditional horse-face skirt under the impact that the ＂Western culture gradually walks to the East＂.