兰屿野银聚落──礼失野求之“旧”祖屋“新”启示

ORCHID ISLAND

乘着颠簸风浪，台东到兰屿的船班抵开元港，民宿老板李爸爸开车载我。他是当地雅美族（亦称达悟族）人，原在台湾本岛从事建筑行业，为陪孩子成长，决定留乡和李妈妈经营民宿。那是栋两层楼水泥房，外墙贴磁砖，—旁在扩建，门口有辆机车给我骑，我说不会，李爸爸一脸疑惑，只差没脱口：“那你来兰屿做什么？”

During their occupation of Taiwan, the Japanese designated Orchid Island an ethnic minorities anthropological research area, isolating the island and forbidding outsiders from entering. Consequently, before 1967 when the travel ban was finally lifted, residents had little contact with the outside world. This changed after Madame Chiang Kai-shek visited the island and was shocked to discover Yamei people living in 'half cave' conditions. She pushed to have the area 'modernized' and between 1966 until 1979, the Taiwan Residents government implemented a national plan to raze traditional homes and replace them with concrete structures. Only in neighboring Langdao and Yeyin Villages did any traditional structures remain standing.In this essay, Jian Zhaoling reflects on her visit to Orchid Island and Yeyin, which during the spring and summer are popular tourist destinations. In contrast, during the winter, the impact of modernization on both indigenous culture and environment becomes viscerally apparent. Construction for the tourist gaze provides relief from the environmental problems that Taiwan currently faces – polluted rivers, a concrete coastline, and the danger of collapsing mountainsides. Instead, the view from a folk in shows only beautiful mountains and water as if the sorrows of the country could be forgotten.