从楚服到齐服:战国时代服饰研究的新材料与新认识

New Material and Findings of Costumes Research in the Warring States

囿于形象材料的匮乏,以往学界对先秦服饰文化的研究大部分依据古代文献资料,难以对这个时代的服饰面貌进行系统梳理、得出全面认识。20世纪80年代,孙机先生曾根据楚墓出土的服饰形象材料提出"楚服"的概念并进行了深入研究。近年来,山东、安徽地区陆续出土的几批服饰材料显示,齐文化分布区应存在另一支具有地方特色的服饰文化,本文以"齐服"称之,并对这类服饰的特点进行了全面探讨。在此基础上,得出了对战国时代整体服饰文化状况的相关认识。

The Chinese scholars specialized in costume culture of the Warring-States had to conduct their research based on literature for the rare image materials. Accordingly, the research in this field is not systematically and comprehensively in the past. In 1980s, Mr. Sun Ji, one of the most accomplished and admired experts in costume research, presented the conception of Chu Fu for the first time on the basis of image materials unearthed from Chu tombs. In recent years, new discoveries in relation to costume unearthed in the present day Shandong and Anhui areas, in the Qi state of the Warring-States, reveals the costume in the above areas has its distin- guishing features which are different from Chu Fu. This paper will focus on this costume named as Qi Fu.