翘袖的结构设计

Structure design of sleeve with up-warped shoulder edge

翘袖具备端庄、俊美、干练的特点,已成为当下服装设计中一种十分重要的时尚袖型元素。但翘袖也因其特殊的飞檐结构无规可循,传统方法只能采用立体裁剪进行粗放式制作。本研究通过对传统圆袖进行切割、展宽、旋转变形、修正处理,从翘袖的外观造型、肩袖连接关系、衣袖结构及绱袖工艺等方面综合考虑,研究出可进行平面裁剪的新型翘袖结构,实现了翘袖结构设计的规范、易操作的目标。

Because of distinct specialty of elegant temperament, pretty appearance and crisp modeling, the sleeve with up-warped shoulder edge has become one kind of important fashion sleeve elements in current fashion design. But because of another distinct specialty of its complicated unique structure which can not be made by standard way, such sleeve has to be designed and produced by means of traditional extensive three-dimensional cutting. Based on standard raglan sleeve style and by means of standard process including division and widening and variant and correction etc. , as well as on the overall considering of the sleeve structure, and its process technology and of sleeve appearance specialty and connected relation between sleeve and shoulder, the design of a new structure of sleeve with up-warped shoulder edge which can be produced by means of standard flat pattern tailoring has been worked out thrnugh study, so as to achieve standard and easy operation in its structural design and producing.