中国南方民族的“异味”饮食与逃逸文化

The “Unusual”Cuisine and Escape Culture in China's Southern Minorities

随着农家乐建设深入到南方少数民族山寨,当地特有的一些饮食习俗——即所谓的"异味,"如野味、啖生、食腐等,也被卷入当今的媒体和民间的话语与交流。历史上,历代文人学者对这些"异味"的记载和评论络绎不绝,视之为"蛮夷"、"异类"的绝好标志。以逃逸文化为视角,可以发现这些看似"原始落后"的食物系统除了"就地取材"之外,还承担有重要的逃离国家控制的文化功能。"蛮夷"食物系统通过食物生产、制作和餐食结构上的特有习俗来消解主粮的重要性、树立与平原国家保持距离的边界符号、消除余粮积累等,以达到逃离平原国家控制的目的。

With the development of agri-tourism in China's southern minority villages,some unique local diet customs( the so-called 'unusual'cuisine such as wild,raw and stinky food) become a heated topic in media and among common people. The unusual cuisine,widely recorded and commented by Chinese scholars in history,has been taken as the label of minorities' alienness and primitiveness. From the perspective of escape culture,this paper argues that such cuisine had important cultural functions in helping minority peoples escape from the state control. The'savage'food reduced the importance of staple food( i. e.,rice),avoided the accumulation of surplus food and served as markers of boundaries between minorities and plain states.