牡丹髻略考

Textual Research on Peony-shaped Topknot

牡丹髻是中国古时妇女的一种高髻发式。主要流行于明清时期,由江南地区波及南北各地。依史料看,最初人们是将牡丹花簪于头上作为装饰。隋唐时期已有将硕大的牡丹、芍药花插于高髻的画作和文字记载;至宋元时期出现了将发髻梳理编盘成牡丹、芍药花的样式,并以花名冠之;明清时这种"牡丹"髻式已广为妇女所喜爱,成为风气。本文通过史料文献,对牡丹髻的发展流变以及髻式的造型进行了考证与分析。

Peony-shaped topknot is a kind of hairstyle with high topknot of women in ancient China.It was popular in the Ming and Qing,and started from regions south of the Yangtze River to other regions.According to historical materials,people put on peony-shaped hairpin as decoration at first.There were paintings and textual recording in the Sui and Tang about wearing big peonies and Chinese harbaceous peonies;in the Song and Yuan,people made their topknots in the shapes of peonies and Chinese harbaceous peonies,and named them as flowers;and in the Ming and Qing,such 'peony-shaped' topknots got popular among women,and became a fashion.With historical documents,this thesis has made textual research and analysis about the development and change of peony-shaped topknot and the modeling of topknot.