针织仿牛仔斜纹面料的开发

Development of Denim Simulated Knitted Twill-effect Fabric

针对梭织牛仔布僵硬不透气、弹性和柔软性差的问题,采用莫代尔、羊毛混纺纱,PorelR、铜氨混纺纱,腈纶、羊毛混纺纱,涤纶抗静电纱,低温氨纶丝以及舒弹丝,在单面大圆机上开发了3款新型的针织仿牛仔斜纹面料。阐述了面料的编织工艺以及染整工艺,指出对织造后的坯布进行选择性染色来达到针织牛仔面料露白的风格,布面风格独特。该类型面料含有保暖型原料,因此面料达到了既时尚又保暖的功效,适合做秋冬男女装面料。但经性能测试表明,该类型面料的湿摩擦牢度差,有待今后进行更深入的研究探讨。

In view of the problem of woven denim fabric with weak flexibility and softness, the paper develops 3 new kinds of denim simulated knitted twill-effect fabrics on single circular knitting machine by using modal/wool blended yarn, porel R/cupro blended yarn, acrylic/wool blended yarn, polyester anti-static yarn, spandex and poly-olefin. It also introduces in detail the knitting technology and the dyeing and finishing technology, and points out that the unique style of denim fabric can be achieved by selective dyeing. The fabric with thermal fiber not only presents fashion appearance, but also has good heat retention function, which is suitable for developing autumn and winter knitted fabric. But the performance testing results show that the wet-rubbing fastness is poor, which needs to be studied further in the future.