水族民间马尾绣背带缝制技艺

Sewing skill research of folk Horsetail embroidered back belt of Shui nationality

基于对贵州省黔南布依族苗族自治州的三都水族自治县县志文化解读和田野调研分析,从历史文化、款式结构和缝制技艺方面入手,对民间马尾绣背带进行研究。马尾绣背带是贵州水族少数民族服饰的重要组成部分,其独特的款式结构、刺绣技艺、缝制工艺彰显了本民族特有的民俗文化特征。采用田野式研究方法,记录了一款经典民间马尾绣背带的缝制工艺流程。在进行主体制作和细部设计剖析时,分析孕育其中的缝纫技术和刺绣技艺,得出民间马尾绣在遵循传统技艺造物观的基础上体现的技术性、技巧性、艺术性和文化意蕴特征,客观真实地反映了水族人热爱生活,祈福保平安的情感以及协调统一的审美价值取向。

The paper researched the folk Horsetail embroidered back belt from the history and culture, style and structure, and sewing skills based on the county history of Sandu Shui automous county, Guizhou province and field investigation. The Horsetail embroidered back belt is an important part of Guizhou Shui Ethnic minority costumes, whose unique style and structure, embroidery arts, sewing process demonstrate the uncomparable ethnic culture characteristics. This paper uses the form of field reseach, and records the sewing process of one typical Horsetail embroidered back belt. Its main production and detailed design are analyzed and the sewing and embroidery skills are discussed. It can be seen that the folk Horsetail embroidered back belt has its special technique, skill, art, and cuhural meaning on the basis of following the traditional concept of creation, and objectively reflects the feeling and aesthetic value of the people who love life and orav for oeace and harmonv.