我国海浪理论及预报研究的回顾与展望

A Review of History and Prospect for Study of Sea Wave Theory and Its Forecast in China

作者从海浪谱、海浪统计分布、海浪预报方法及动力机制、破碎波和近岸的海浪 5个方面回顾与总结了我国在海浪理论及预报研究方面所取得的成果 ,最后对我国在新世纪的海浪研究做一展望。

In the present paper the achievements in the study of sea wave theory and forecast in China are reviewed in 5 aspects, i.e. sea wave spectra, the statistics of sea waves, wave forecasting method and dynamical mechanism, breaking waves and waves in coastal zones. In addition, the prospect for the study of sea wave theory and its forecast in China in the new century is briefly given.