非常规分割线的构成方法及其创意

Research on techniques and creations in unconventional structure line

非常规分割线能充分展示现代女装设计中变化多端的造型需求。结合实例,分别运用平面裁剪、立体裁剪、平面与立体相结合的裁剪方法对非常规分割线进行研究,对各种不同方法得到的样版在省道量转移、松量、丝绺方向、样版准确度、成衣效果等各方面进行分析和比较,归纳总结非常规分割线不同构成方法的规律和差异。通过对非常规分割线结构设计原则的应用,在分割线处加入褶裥或空间量等方式实现服装结构创意,满足服装设计个性化需求。

Unconventional structure line is important in meeting diverse requirements for designing modern women＇s dress.Unconventional structure lines herein are clearly demonstrated through samples based on different tailing methods of plane cutting,three-dimensional cutting and a combination of the both.An analytical comparison is made of the garment patterns obtained from differnent methods in terms of dart,ease,frings,accuracy of garment pattern and results of garment,which helps to draw general principles for different techniques in unconventional structure line.The application of those designing philosophies make creative dress structure true by the way of adding pleats or space to meet individual demands for fashion.