基于样板设计的时装毛衫工艺计算

Application of paper pattern to the technology calculation in knitting fashion sweaters

依据服装样板设计原理,利用剪切法和旋转法对省道进行处理,形成适用于毛衫工艺计算的无省道样板;根据毛衫成形特点,提出"弧线化直"和"弧线化折"的方法对样板弧线进行处理,形成具有毛衫衣片形状的工艺样板;利用"收针、平摇、放针"的三段式收、放针折线对毛衫袖窿形状进行优化,降低工艺计算难度;建立数学方程,对收、放针进行合理分配,形成毛衫工艺计算新方法。

The paper presents a way to draw a sweater pattern with no dart based on the theory of garment structure. Then, convert the curves of the pattern into straight or polygonal lines to match the shapes of weft-knitting garment pieces. After that, optimize the armhole through narrowing, flat rolling, as well as widening. What＇s last but not least is to balance the widening and narrowing operation rules by having mathematical equations to make a complete technology sheet.