女装袖型设计及配袖要点探讨

Key points for sleeves design and sleeve matching of women dresses

根据影响袖型功能的袖窿条件,即袖窿深决定袖山高、窿距决定袖肥,袖窿弧长与袖山容量关系密切,提出先研究衣身与衣袖的平衡关系、袖窿形态与衣袖造型的关系、袖型与袖窿弧长的关系,然后根据袖窿形态配制合适的袖型。衣袖的"三势"(前势、弯势、扣势)是将普通合体袖型转化为高级袖型的关键。

According to armhole conditions influencing sleeve functions, that is, sleeve top height determined by armhole depth, armhole distance by sleeve width, and relationship between curve lengths of the armhole,and sleeve top size, we suggest that matching between garment body and sleeves, relationship between armhole shape and sleeve style, and relationship between sleeves and curve length of armholes should be considered first, and then appropriate sleeve style is chosen to match armhole shape. Three-potential （forward potential, bending potential and buckling potential） is the key points to transform the ordinary fit sleeve to advanced one.