摘要
通过对中国古代织金织物的分析,发现织金的方法有各种差异:a)金纬有通梭织入与挖梭织入的不同;b)对金纬的接结有地结与特结的不同;c)地纬与金纬有全越排列和半越排列的差异,各种方法都备有特点及自身发生、发展的历史。中国古代织金织造方法以挖梭、地结、全越为起始,随着通梭、特结、半越等方式的出现,它们即相互结合,共同构成了绚丽多姿的中国织金艺术。
The analyses of Chinese ancient gold-woven silk fabrics reveal some differences between gold-weaving methods,mainly including the following: 1.the patterning gold weft is inserted through full width,or woven into fabric by swivelling; 2.the gold weft can be bound with ground or extra warp yarns,3.the ground and gold weft are arranged in 1:1 or 2:1.All these weaving methods with respective features witness their own process of development.The gold weaving technology,with swivelling,ground warp binding,and array of ground and gold weft in 1:1 as the earliest forms,had ceaselessly developed and advanced.The weft insertion through full width corresponding to swivelling originated about in the Jin and Yuan periods; the extra warp binding corresponding to ground warp binding ori- ginated in the Yuan Dynasty; while the array of ground warp and gold weft in 2:1 instead ef 1:1 came out at the latest in the Ming Dynasty.And all these techniques coexisted with the original ones,which can be found easily in Chinese ancient gold-woven fabrics.
