不规则波抛物型缓底坡波动方程

The parabolic mild-slope equation for irregular waves

使用Kubo近似 ,导出了不规则波抛物型缓底坡波动方程的折射绕射联合模型 .对不规则波抛物型缓底坡波动方程进行数值模拟 ,并对结果与实验进行比较 .不规则波抛物型缓底坡波动方程能很好地描述波浪传播过程中的变化 ,由此 ,可以预测波浪在传播过程中受到地形及波浪间相互用作而发生的变化 .

The parabolic mild\|slope equation for the combined refraction and diffraction of irregular waves is derived using Kubo approximation.The numerical modeling of parabolic mild\|slope equation for irregular waves is compared with the result of physical model.The parabolic mild\|slope equation for irregular waves is shown to be capable of describing wave propagation over a bed consisting of substantial variation in water depth and predicting wave refraction\|diffraction 3\|D topography.