岬间海湾滨面带波浪结构和外观统计特征

Analysis of the Statistic Characteristics of Wave Structure and Appearance in the Shoreface Zones of the Bays Between Headlands

对中等波能条件下收集的粤东两个岬间海湾滨面带４个站点的波浪数据作了滨面带波面、波包和 长重力波的基本特征的分析，得到如下主要结果：（１）滨面带波谱由多峰频构成，从海向岸波高增大， 波周期减小，谱宽度加大，谱尖度减小；（２）入射波群性较强，表征入射波群性的相对均方根群高与谱 宽度无关；（３）长波振幅与波浪能量增大，其形成主要与组成波间的非线性相互作用有关。

The characteristics of the wave surface, wave envelops and infra-gravity waves are analyzed in this paper based on the wave data of 4 stations collected at two small bays between headlands in East Guangdong Province under medium wave energy. The main results are obtained as follows: (1) The wave surface spectra are composed of multi-frequency peaks. The wave heights and the spectral width increase shoreward, while the wave periods and spectral peak decrease at the same time. (2) The waves show stronger groupiness. The wave groupiness is not related to the wave spectral widths. (3) The amplitudes of infragravity waves increase with wave energy and the formations are mainly related to the non-linear interactions between the composed waves.