摘要
水波动力学,历史悠久,内容丰富,此文仅进行简要的历史回顾,以阐明其进展的思想、智慧、途径以及这门学科对其它学科进展的贡献和影响.随后,引进一个新理论,能模拟三维、非定常、有完全非线性和频散(或色散)性的重力毛细波,在深度任变的水中传播和演化的现象.此外,对二维水波在海滩上之涨落问题,提供一个Lagrange-Euler观点相结合的精确计算方法,以供读者推广和应用,此外,对外力作用下的水波系统共振现象,作些补充论述.
This article first gives a brief review on the history of various approaches of modeling water waves based on differing emphases on the main physical parameters involved. It presents a unified theory for modeling unsteady, three-dimensional, fully nonlinear and fully dispersive gravity-capillary waves in water of variable depth. Also presented is a Lagrangian-Eulerian hybrid numerical method for evaluating run-ups of nonlinear waves on sloping beach. Applications of these methods are illustrated with several problems of fundamental significance.
出处
《力学进展》
EI
CSCD
北大核心
2001年第3期327-343,共17页
Advances in Mechanics
关键词
水波
重力毛细波
非线性效应
孤立波
孤立子
频散效应
动力学
海滩波
waster wave, gravity-capillary wave, nonlinear effect, dispersion effect, solitary wave, soliton, shoaling wave, exact solution, externally excited resonant wave, stability of nonlinear water wave