轻薄织物斜向力学性能与缝纫起皱关系的研究

Study on the relationship between seam appearance and mechanical properties of the light weight fabric along the bias direction

研究了轻薄织物各向异性与缝纫起皱的关系 .随着织物斜向角度增加 ,织物低应力下织物伸长性能E5、E2 0、织物弯曲性能和织物成形性呈现明显的变化 .织物 45°方向成形性F值是织物经向的 5 .1倍 ( 4 .9× 2tex全棉府绸织物 )或 7.8倍 (经涤长丝纬棉涤短纤纱交织织物 ) .织物斜向 (θ～θ)缝条缝纫起皱得到改善 ,而缝纫上下层伸长性能差异会造成较严重缝纫起皱 ,(θ～θ)缝条在 45°缝纫起皱较严重 .

The relationship between seam appearance and mechanical properties of the light weight fabric during garment manufacture when sewing two pieces of fabrics along different directions is investigated. Due to the various fabric properties along different directions, two pieces of fabrics sewing together under various directions would lead to different seam performance. The results show that the fabric formability in the bias direction (45°) is about 5.1 ( a fabric of 2×4.9 tex cotton yarn ) or 7.8 times ( a fabric of filament/spun yarn ) larger than that in the warp direction, and seams along the bias direction possess more extensible than that along or near the principal directions.