针织服装设计及缝制特性的研究

A Study on the Design and Making-up Properties of Knitted Apparel

针织服装设计包括款式设计、样板设计和对色配料三个方面 ,其主要环节为样板设计 ,文中对样板设计中的放松量、颡、面料的悬垂性 ,缝制工艺回缩及缝纫损耗提出了具体要求。对于针织面料的缝制特性 ,应根据面料的薄厚选择缝针 ,根据面料的延伸性和弹性选用线迹和衬布 ,根据面料的纬斜程度进行对条。针织服装的缝制不宜采用推、归、拔。

Normally the design of knitted garment refers to fashion design, design of template and material assortment including colour matching. Among them, the design of template is the most important one.Specific requirements to the template is given in regard to sewing allowance, invisible tucks, the drapability of fabric as well as the technological retraction and loss in sewing. In accordance with the sewing properties of knitted fabric, the sewing needles used should match the thickness of the fabric, the sewing stitch and interlining should be selected according to the extensibility and elasticity of the fabric, the bias weft should be adjusted according to the degree of distortion. Some moulding skill is inadvisable to be used in the make up of knitted garment, such as pushing, press in, press out and ironing.