砂洗真丝经编绸及服装开发工艺技术

Sand-Washing Technology of Warp-Knitted Silk Fabrics and Garments

砂洗真丝针织技术在国内尚处于探索性试生产阶段。通过多次试验实践,对砂洗工序在染色前后对真丝经编成品绸及服装的影响与效果;成衣砂洗对成品质量的影响与效果进行研究,制订出适用的工艺技术路线。文中介绍了采用坯绸染色后再经砂洗、整理后缝制成衣的工艺路线,其突出的有利点是;(1)符合服装加工的一般规律,即成品绸加工服装,服装不需再经特殊处理,避免了服装砂洗由于织物缩率影响成衣尺寸稳定性而产生形变的缺陷;(2)染色后砂洗不影响砂洗效果,且比染色前砂洗效果好,其风格独特,手感蓬松,厚实丰满,绒毛感强。

Through repeated experiments and practice, the effects of sand-washing following and prior to dyeing on real silk warp-knitted fabrics and garment are investigated. The process of garment making by first dyeing the grey fabrics and then sand-washing and finishing them is introduced, showing that it conforms to the regular procedure of garment manufacture; Garments made of finished fabrics no longer need any special treatment, and are not subject to deformation due to shrinkage arising from sand-washing; The results of sand-washing after dyeing prove better than those before dyeing; and the treated fabrics show a unique style of bulky and wool-like hand.