水貂皮鞣制工艺中皮板关键成分含量和组织结构的变化

Changes of key components content and histological structure of mink fur in tanning process

测定了水貂皮鞣制各工序皮板中的水分、油脂、铝及氯离子含量,分析了各工序皮板组织结构的变化,并初步探索了油鞣的改进工艺。水貂原料皮油脂含量高达30%,转鼓干燥和干洗工序对脱脂贡献最大,而脱脂工序仅限于表面脱脂。油鞣工序中填充在皮中的大量踢皮油中仅有极少部分与皮纤维结合(成品油脂含量4%～7%),其余绝大部分在干洗时被洗出。水貂皮结合了少量铝鞣剂和盐,其含量基本不受干燥、干洗等工序的影响。铝鞣和干洗对于皮板纤维结构的分散和定型作用最显著。溶剂加油方式在减少踢皮油用量的同时,能保证成品手感与常规油鞣皮相当。

The content of moisture,grease,aluminum and chloride ion in mink fur from various processes during tanning was determined and the change in histological structure of mink fur with the processes was analyzed.Then the improvement Of oil tanning process was preliminarily explored.For the high grease content (30%)in raw mink fur, drum drying and dry cleaning contributed the most to grease removal,much better than the surface degreasing performance of degreasing process.A large quantity of kicking oil was filled into the fur via oil tanning.However,most of the oil tanning agent was washed out during dry cleaning and only a small portion was fixed upon the collagen fibers.The grease content in the final product was 4%-7%.Mink fur combined with a small amount of aluminum tanning agents and salt,whose content is basically not affected by drying and dry cleaning.Aluminum tanning and dry cleaning have the most significant effect on the dispersion and shaping of the collagen fiber network.The dosage of kicking oil could be reduced by using solvent oiling and the organoleptic properties of resultant mink fur are comparable to the conventional chamois tanned one.