纬平针彩条凸显立体花型图案工艺研究

Study on the Technology of Highlighting Three-Dimensional Pattern with Zonal Needle

在纬平针彩条组织的基础上,采用脱圈结构设计及鸟眼交织设计的工艺制版编织方法,开发设计几何图案、动植物花型图案以及立体抽象型图案的织物,详细介绍使用纬平针彩条凸显立体花型图案的设计方法。通过改变线圈大小比例结构和鸟眼交织两种工艺方法,使线圈结构形态发生变化,凸显出立体花型图案,脱圈结构是通过线圈放套将图案中线圈的比例放大,与原有线圈的大小比例形成反差而实现;鸟眼交织是运用浮线与成圈组织的联动,彩条行数间的线圈松紧交替变化而实现。该设计方法可以延伸彩条产品的花色品种,使花型图案清晰、美观、立体感强,设计简便,对生产彩条针织产品的企业和制版设计人员具有一定的参考价值。

On the basis of the organization of plain stitch color strip organization,the off-loop structure design and bird's-eye interweaving design weaving methods were used to develop the fabrics with geometric patterns,plant and animal patterns and three-dimensional abstract patterns.The design method of using plain stitch color strip organization to highlight three-dimensional pattern was introduced in detail.Through changing the proportional structure of loops size and the interweaving of bird's-eye,the shape of the loop structure is changed and the three-di- mensional pattern is highlighted.The off-loop structure amplifies the proportion of the loop in the pattern through coil sleeve,and it is achieved in contrast with the ratio of the original coil size.Bird's-eye interweaving is achieved by using the linkage of floating lines and forming circles,and the coil tension between the color strips alternately changes.This design method can extend the variety of color strip products and make the pattern clear, beautiful and three-dimensional,which is simple and has a certain reference value for the production industry and plate designers of color strip knitted products.