飞织3D针织鞋面孔洞组织的制版工艺

Plate making of eyelet structure in 3D flyknit uppers

飞织3D针织鞋面孔洞组织的制版工艺对鞋面构图和尺码控制等具有重要作用。文章根据不同编织翻针形式分析半通透和全通透2种孔洞组织形式在飞织3D针织鞋面中的应用,并运用编织、翻针、移针动作集合由无动作色码代替的制版方式对编织加吊目(集圈)、直接翻针、移针、平收形成的孔洞进行具体分析。同时,对飞织3D针织鞋面孔洞组织在制版工艺设计过程中受到孔洞组织的补针方式、功能条设置和孔洞循环排列方式的影响因素进行了分析。无动作色码代替编织移针动作集合的制版方式在一定程度上可保证飞织3D针织鞋面构图的完整性和尺码缩放的可操作性,可为飞织3D针织鞋面开发提供参考。

Plate making of eyelet structure in 3D flyknit uppers plays an important role in the composition and size control of the shoes.In accordance with different knitting links,the application of semi-transparent and transparent eyelet structures were analyzed in 3D flyknit uppers,and specific analysis on eyelets formed through tuck stitch,direct stitch,racking stitch and garter stitch by no-action color code plate-making was also conducted instead of a set of knitting,links and racking stitch.At the same time,the plate making of eyelet structures in 3D flyknit uppers in the process of design by article way for needle eyelets,function setting and the influence factors of eyelet loop arrangement were analyzed.The plate making method of no action moving color code instead knitting needle set can guarantee the integrity of the composition's 3D flyknit uppers and operability of size grading,which can provide references for the development of the pattern making of eyelet structure in 3D flyknit uppers .