社会变迁中的饮食与养生——以广式老火汤为例

Diet and Health Cultivation in Social Changes:Taking Cantonese Lo Foh Tong as an Example

从日常养生食品广式"老火汤"的变迁历史来看,清末至民国现代工商阶层的崛起引导了新的饮食需求,使"煲汤"成为新的饮食风尚,此为"老火汤"的孕育期;改革开放以来,经过药膳、商贸、餐饮、图书出版、旅游等多种产业发展的驱动,"煲汤"被有意打造成广东传统养生食品"老火汤",并在适应日常生活的过程中进一步内化成为本土饮食记忆的一部分;进入21世纪,在现代医学、营养学的影响下,人们开始改良"老火汤"的烹饪方式,但煲"老火汤"的饮食习惯却依旧传承。由此可见,人们在饮食与养生的选择中,所依据的并不仅仅是现代医学体系下的健康与营养标准,食物的口味、经济利益及文化意涵均有重要的参考价值。这对思考当下由传统饮食习惯与现代营养建议之间的冲突而引发的饮食问题具有启发意义。

Seen from the changing history of daily health cultivation food Cantonese Lo Foh Tong,from the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China,the rising modern industrial and commercial class brought about new food requirement and made"boil soup"to be new food fashion.This is the gestation period of"Lo Foh Tong".Since the reform and opening up period,promoted by herbal cuisine,commerce,catering,book publication and tourism and so on,"boil soup"has been intentionally created as Cantonese traditional health cultivation food"Lo Foh Tong",and internalized as a part of local food memory in the process ofadapting to daily life.In the 21 st century,influenced by modern medicine and nutrition theory,people begin to improve the cooking method of"Lo Foh Tong",while the habit of making"Lo Foh Tong"is inherited.Therefore,in people’s choice of food and health cultivation,they not only base their diet on health and nutrition standards under modern medical system,but also refer to the taste of food,economic benefits and cultural implications,which is instructive for thinking about the current dietary problems caused by the conflict between traditional eating habits and modern nutritional advice.