全成形毛衫腋下成形工艺

Armpit shaping techonology of whole garment

为了研究全成形产品腋下成形方法,明确不同成形方法对毛衫外观的影响。以岛精公司MACH2X15318G、MACH2XS15312G型全成形电脑横机为试验设备,结合DS-ONE APPEX 3设计系统,对全成形毛衫腋下成形工艺进行研究。根据编织步骤将全成形毛衫腋下成形工艺归纳为移针工艺、腋下连接工艺、腋下拼角工艺3个部分。移针工艺需注意版型的影响,下摆较宽的毛衫需分段多次将袖子移向身侧。腋下连接工艺分为边缘交叠及袖窿起底,袖窿起底的针数会影响毛衫牢度。根据拼角的具体形态可以将腋下拼角分为无拼角、单拼角、双拼角、三角拼角。分析了不同拼角工艺对全成形毛衫腋下外观的影响,并指出拼角位置应随袖窿收针交叠方向移动。

In order to study the armpit shaping method of full-forming products and identify the influence of different shaping methods on the appearance of sweater, armpit shaping process of full-forming sweater is studied by using shima seiki MACH2 X15318 G and MACH2 XS15312 G full-forming computer flat knitting machine combined with DS-ONE APPEX 3 design system. According to the knitting procedure, the armpit shaping process of the full-forming sweater is divided into three parts: the needle shifting technology, the armpit connection process and the armpit angle making process. It should be paid attention to the influence of type version in the needle shifting technology that sleeves should be moved to the side of the body for several times in knitting of sweater with wider width. The armpit connection process is divided into overlapping edges and armhole setup, and the number of needles in armhole setup will affect the fastness of sweaters. According to the specific shape of connection, the armpit connection process can be divided into several types, such as normal connection, machi on body, machi on body and sleeve and flechage before machi. In addition, the influence of different angle forming knitting technology on armpit appearance of full-forming sweater is analyzed. It is clarified that the position of the fashion mark of armhole will affect the corner connection position.