从口味到趣味的社会分析——从布尔迪厄《区隔》谈起

From Kitchen to Aesthetic Text:A Social Analysis Based on Bourdieu's Distinction

布尔迪厄的趣味判断批判是针对康德美学非功利美学原则而发。在布尔迪厄看来,趣味源于口味,必须回溯到厨房和饭桌上饮食口味形成的阶级因由,从而展开社会空间中等级秩序表达形式的实证分析。如工人阶级宁可实在饱餐、不屑资产阶级餐桌礼仪,一定程度上正好比自然与矫饰、随心所欲与循规蹈矩的鲜明对峙。而权贵阶层独立于感官诱惑的高雅趣味,看似超越,根源上是在维护自身的阶级特权。布尔迪厄这一从口味到趣味来展开社会分析的思路,甚至适用于《红楼梦》的审美趣味批判。直面趣味的阶级区隔特征,或者可以呼吁一种新的平等。

Against Kant’s disinterested aesthetic principles,Pierre Bourdieu’s critique of judgment of taste starts from kitchen and table in social space.Bourdieu demonstrates how working class prefer a full meal to bourgeois table manner,thereby constituting the taste contrast between nature and decoration.In this respect,working class expects objects to fulfil a function while those free from economic necessities are able to operate a pure gaze separated from everyday life to maintain their cultural hegemony.Thus,a critique of the aesthetic taste in Dream of the Red Chamber shall not be a dream.With classical distinction acknowledged,one may appeal to a new equality.