真丝双绉绉效应与几何结构的相关研究

RELATION BETWEEN THE CREPE EFFECT AND GEOMETRIC STRUCTURE OF REAL SILK CREPE de CHINE

真丝双绉绉效应与织物的表面几何结构密切相关,与截面几何结构关系不大,绉效应系数(Z)被定义为表面几何结构参数——纬线的波高、密度和单位长度中的半波数的乘积.研究表明,它与绉效应呈单调递增函数关系,可作为绉效应的数量评定指标.此外,织物的纬密、捻度、覆盖率、后整理张力以及环境条件与Z值密切相关,要增强双绉的绉效应,必须合理选择工艺参数和后整理条件,使Z值增大.

The studies performed show the crepe effect of real silk crepe de chine depends mainly on the geometric struture of the fabric surface, but weakly on that of the cross section. The crepe effect coefficient(Z) is de- fined as the product of surface geomeric structural parameters, i. e. the amplitude, density, and number of half waves in unit length. It is a monotone increasing function of crepe effect, and its value can be used as a quantitative index for crepe effect evaluation. In addition, such factors as weft density and twist, fabric cover ratio and aftertreatment tension, and ambient conditions ralate closely to the value Z. Therefore, it is necessary to select proper technical parameters and aftertreatment conditions so as to improve the crepe ef- fect.