波浪在变深区的向岸传播

WATER WAVE PROPAGATION TOWARD SHORE IN VARIED DEPTH REGION

基于非线性长波方程,除在开边界对幅射波进行了线化处理外,还对局部波数(波长)、局部相位以及入射波速进行了修正。以圆柱绕射、斜坡底折射和波浪向岸传播为实例进行了计算。结果表明:对于波向变化、破波位置及波幅变化诸方面其计算与经验是一致的。因此本文的工作拓宽了非线性长波方程的适用范围,而且为应用Boussinesq方程研究浅水波变形打下了基础。

Based on the nonlinear long wave equation, this paper presents the revision of the calculations of local wave number (wavelength), local phase and the velocity of incident waves in addition to the linear handling of radiational waves at open boundary. Cylinder diffraction, inclined bottom refraction and water wave propagation toward the shore in varied depth region are calculated as examples. The calculations indicate that the calculation results of the variation in wave direction, position of breaking waves and variation in amplitude are consistent with the emperical ones. Therefore, the work described in this paper widens the scope of application of the nonlinear long wave equation and lays foundations for applying Boussinesq equation to the study of the deformation of shallow waves.