活性染料及其染色近年进展(五)

Progress and Developments in Reactive Dyestuff and Its Dyeing Process (Ⅴ)

系统评述了近年来活性染料的发展 ,包括发色体、活性基 ,特别是双活性基染料的生态染色性能与结构的关系 ,例如染料的发色强度、耐氯和耐汗日光牢度 ,染料的直接性、反应性与深染性的关系 ;重点分析了染料的拼混和后加工与染料的颜色、深染性、洗涤性及牢度等关系 ,指出合理拼混染料是一种切实可行的技术 ,不仅对染料生产 ,而且对染料应用是具有重要的经济价值。本文后半部分重点评述了染色技术的发展 ,包括亲和力与低盐染色、匀染性与受控染色、深染性与深色品种染色、坚牢性与坚牢品种染色的关系 ;最后重点介绍了新纤维、非纤维素纤维及多组分纤维纺织品的染色。文中还介绍了笔者近年来的某些相关研究成果。活性染料过去、现在和将来 ,一直是最重要的一类染料 ,应该不断研究、改进和开发。

The progress in reactive dyestuff was reviewed. This included color bodies, reactive groups, especially the relationships between eco-dyeing properties and dyestuff structure. The relationships between mixture, after-treatment of dyestuffs and shade, deep dyeing, washability and color fastness were analyzed . It is pointed out that rational mixture of dyestuff is a feasible technique which is not only for dyestuff manufacture, but also for the application of the dyestuff. The developments of reactive dyestuff process were reviewed in the second part of this paper, for instance the relationships between substantivity and low salt dyeing, levelling dyeing and controlled dyeing, deep dyeing and deep shade dyestuff, color fastness and fast colors. At last, the dyeing processes of new fiber, non-cellulose fiber and multi-components fiber were introduced. The achievements achieved by the author in some research fields were introduced.