纬编针织面料拉伸变形规律研究

Study on Tensile Deformation Law of Weft-Knitted Fabrics

为了精确检测针织服装面料的保型性能,利用图像法测试3款针织面料在10%、20%、30%、40%定伸长条件下,沿拉伸方向选择30个位置点,评价各不同位置面料布边收缩差异。结果表明:纬编针织面料布边收缩曲线可由抛物线模拟,抛物线开口越大,面料布边收缩越严重;当抛物线开口相同时,可由抛物线在y轴截距评价,截距越小,面料布边收缩越严重;针织面料组织和原料显著影响面料布边收缩性,涤纶抗收缩性好于棉,而罗纹面料好于平针面料;正常情况下,针织面料纵、横向布边抗收缩性会呈现明显异性。

In order to accurately test shape retention performance of knitted fabrics,the graphic method was used to test 3 types of knitted fabrics under 10%,20%,30%,40% specified elongation,respectively. 30 points were chosen along the tensile direction to evaluate shrinkage differences of selvage at different positions. The results show that selvage shrinkage curve of weft-knitted fabrics can be simulated with the parabola; bigger parabolic openings means more serious selvage shrinkage; when the parabolic openings are the same,selvage shrinkage can be evaluated according to y axis intercept of the parabolic. Smaller intercept means more serious selvage shrinkage; knitted fabric knitted fabric and raw materials have significant influence on selvage shrinkage; polyester has better anti-shrinkage than cotton; the rib fabric has better anti-shrinkage than flat-knitted fabric; under normal conditions,anti-shrinkage of transverse and longitudinal selvage of knitted fabrics will show significant differences.