压褶服装“一衣多穿”的形态设计

Form Design of “ONE FOR ALL” of Pleated Costume

提出压褶服装设计中"一衣多穿"的创作概念,将压褶服装的形态设计分为实形态及虚形态,分析形态上的设计转换特征对于压褶服装形成"一衣多穿"式外观的关键性作用。通过案例分析法,将能够引起压褶服装"一衣多穿"式穿法变化的空间形态设计进行了归纳,分别从肌理、结构、廓型、局部及细节的形态特征入手,结合品牌服装——Janetwear设计创作案例,逐一阐述空间形态设计与着装状态之间的关系。主张压褶服装设计"一衣多穿"式创作手法的采用应在形态塑造的基础上,注重结合时尚语境特征进行设计,以使该类设计作品满足艺术审美性的同时兼具市场价值。

This paper puts forward the concept ＂ONE FOR ALL＂of the pleated costume,divides form design of pleated costume into practical and impractical form,and analyzes the key role of form design conversion features on＂ONE FOR ALL＂of the pleated costume. This paper concludes space form design of pleated costume through case analysis,starts with morphological characteristics of fabric texture,structures,silhouette,part and details and combines design works of brand clothing（ Janetwear） to set forth the relationship between space form design and dressing state. this paper advocates that the application of ＂ONE FOR ALL＂should be based on form design and combine with context characteristic in order to make this kind of works meet artistic aesthetics and market value.