针织毛衫的袖型建模与工艺实现

Modeling and technology realization of knitted sweater sleeve type

袖型设计是针织毛衫设计的重点和难点,为实现针织毛衫袖型设计的规范化和高效化,在深入研究横编工艺原理的基础上,结合人体的结构特征以及对服装的运动功能性要求,通过二维与三维相结合的设计方法,建立了用于针织毛衫的袖型模型。该模型不仅符合自身结构的合理性,同时也满足了款式造型的审美性以及人体的功能性需求。基于人体结构原理与脂肪分布特点,提出各种袖型的工艺区域划分与工艺设计方法,并对各种袖型进行试样举例,证明针织毛衫的袖型建模可适用于针织毛衫的袖型设计,并可以作为各种变化袖型建模的基础,在一定程度上规范了针织毛衫袖型的工艺设计,为针织毛衫新袖型的研发提供参考。

Sleeve type design is the emphasis and difficulty in sweater design. To realize the standardization and high efficiency of the knitted sweater sleeve type design, on the basis of in-depth study of flat knitting process principle, and according to the structure characteristics of the human body and the movement functional requirements on the clothing, a knitting swear sleeve model is established by using the 2-D and 3-D design methods. The sleeve model satisfies the rationality of its structure and conforms to the functional requirements of the human body and style of aesthetics. Based on the theory of human body structure characteristic and the fat distribution, the sleeve type classification method and process design method were put forward, and samples of sleeve types were given. It is proved that sweater sleeve type modeling can be used in knitting sweater sleeve type design and regarded as variety sleeve modeling type basis. To a certain extent, it regulates the process of knitting sweater sleeve type design, and provides a reference for new sweater sleeve type researches.