羊毛衫快速染色法仿旧工艺研究

Distressed process research on rapid dyeing of wool sweaters

针对羊毛衫加工过程中不能摩擦翻滚的特性,对常规染色工艺进行改进,通过合理选择染料、助剂,缩短染色时间,降低染色温度等工艺方法对羊毛衫进行染色.染色后出现色光浅、不透染、深浅层次鲜明、整体外观均一的仿旧效果.与常规染色工艺相比,其染色时间缩短30％ ～50％.快速染色最终工艺为成品羊毛针织衫经过3％ （owf）的匀染剂沸水浴预处理20 min后,不经过冷水洗和烘干,直接转移到已配好的染液中,且初始染色温度在50 ℃,升温速率为3℃/min,最终染色温度为85℃,保温15 min.染色后在60 ℃固色15 min.该工艺实现了羊毛衫的快速染色,而且具有仿旧效果,但上染百分率低,只达到55％左右,这是符合预期的.

The rolling friction is taboo in the finishing process of the wool fabric. According to these physical and chemical properties of wool fiber, the reform to the conventional dyeing process will be carried on in the topic. After dyeing, the distressed effects such as color shade shallow, not penetration, shades of distinct levels and uniform overall appearance are appeared. Compared with the conventional dyeing process, the dyeing time will be reduced by 30% to 50%. Finished wool sweaters are preprocessed in boiling water bath with 3% （owf） leveling agent for 20 rain and then are directly transferred to the dye formulation without cold water and drying. The initial dyeing temperature is 50 ℃ , heating rate of 3 ℃/rain, final dyeing temperature is 85 ℃ , insulation 15 rain. The dye fixing agent is fixed for 15 rain at 60 ℃. The process is the final quick dyeing process. Though the quick dyeing process on wool sweaters is enabled and the distressed effects of the sweater are achieved, the dyeing rate is low, only reached about 55% , which is in line with expectations.