单向导湿方格菱形面料的开发

Development of One-way Moisture Transferring Argyle Tartan Knitted Fabric

采用涤纶与阳离子改性涤纶交织作为织物外层,导湿性较好的丙纶纱作为织物内层,在双面大圆机上开发一款新型的具有单向导湿功能的菱形方格针织面料。阐述原料规格、设备参数、组织结构、织针排列、三角排列、编织图、穿纱方式等编织工艺,以及精练、染色、定形等染整工艺及注意事项。该面料可将皮肤排出的汗水迅速导出体外,保持皮肤干爽,同时通过单染阳离子改性涤纶,面料正面呈现方格小花型,新颖别致,适用于开发运动休闲类面料。采用双面机型开发的这款具有提花效果的面料,大大降低了生产成本,具有一定的市场竞争力,已逐步成为面料开发的一种新趋势。

The paper develops a new kind of argyle tartan knitted fabric with one-way moisture transferring function on double circular knitting machine knitting machine by using polyester and cation modified polyester in- ter-knitted yarn as fabric face, and polypropylene yarn as fabric back. It introduces in detail the knitting technolo- gy including raw material＇s specification, equipment parameters, fabric structure, needle arrangement, cam ar- rangement, knitting diagram and threading ways, and the dyeing and finishing technology including refining, dye- ing, fixation and setting and so on are also presented. The results show that the fabric can keep the skin dry and argyle tartan design is showed by dyeing cation modified polyester, which is suitable for developing sports and leisure apparel. The production cost of this imitating jacquard fabric knitted on the double machine has been greatly reduced with a certain degree of market competitiveness, and it gradually becomes a new trend in fabric development.