1920—1940年西方现代女装的造型与风格研究

Research on the Modeling and Style of Western Modern Women's Wear in 1920- 1940

通过对中国丝绸博物馆1920—1940年的藏品研究,结合相关文献资料,以"夫拉帕"(Flaper)、30年代晚装、内衣BRA、现代女性套装4种女装造型为代表,并对同时期的女装面料的装饰风格进行分析,得出以下结论:1920—1940年是现代女装发展的第一个高潮期;在这一时期,现代女装彻底地打破了传统的阶级和性别差别,确立了简约与浪漫并存的晚装(礼服)、日装(套装)及内衣的基本款型;这种简约与浪漫女装的造型风格在服装设计中一直演变传承,运用至今。

Through a case study of the collection of western modern women＇s wear in 1920-1940 collected by China National Silk Museum,in combination of relevant researches,this paper takes Flapper,evening dress in 1930s,Bra,modern women＇s suit as representatives and analyzes decoration styles of women＇s wear in the same period.The following conclusion is drawn：the time period of 1920-1940 is the first development peak of modern women＇s wear; in this period,modern women＇s wear thoroughly broke traditional class and gender differences and simple and romantic evening dress,day wear （suit） and bra styles were established.Such simple and romantic style has been evolved and inherited in clothing design.