从文化视野析20世纪上半叶中国服装造型变革

Analysis of Transformation of Chinese Clothing Forms in the First Half of the 20th Century from Cultural Perspective

20世纪上半叶,中国服装造型结构的变革有着本质变化,传统直线式宽松离身服装结构,逐渐被关注身体机能、注重身体形态的窄体服装所取代。分析认为,服装造型结构变化的深层次原因与中国文化的转型存在必然的关系。20世纪上半叶中国社会经历了前所未有之大变局,社会变化翻天覆地,服装的发展冲出封建社会的樊篱,呈现前所未有的繁华。影响服装造型变化的因素是多方面的,清末民初政治制度的频繁更迭是产生这一变化的根本原因,民权与平等思想的不断深入宣传、社会风尚的转变等因素,都是推动服装造型结构变化的深层次动因。

In the first half of the 20 thCentury,the transformation of Chinese clothing has essentially changed in forms. Traditional straight-line loose clothing structure is gradually replaced by narrow clothing which focuses on body functions and body shape. There is inevitable relationship between deep-level causes of clothing form change and Chinese cultural transformation. Chinese society experienced unprecedented great transformation in the first half of the20 thcentury. Social changes were world-shaking. The development of clothing broke out constraints of the feudal society and presented unprecedented prosperity. There are several factors that result in the change of clothing forms.The frequent change of political system in the late Qing and early republic is the root cause for such change. Besides,continuous thorough publicity and changes in the social climate are deep-level causes for changes in clothing forms and structures.