横机褶裥面料的开发及其在毛衫上的运用

Development of pleated fabrics on flat knitting machine and application for sweater

介绍了横机褶裥面料在毛衫造型设计中的应用和褶裥的编织成型原理,并对变化褶裥的编织工艺进行分析。主要探讨了通过改变满针罗纹和平针编织的横列数实现不同间距及大小褶裥,增加编织色纱的数目实现不同色彩褶裥,改变平针编织的针床实现双面褶裥,以及通过改变褶裥的针数实现局部褶裥的具体实施方式,最后提出了该类面料编织过程中的注意事项。横机褶裥面料的凹凸肌理可为设计师在毛衫款式设计方面提供灵感,有利于拓展毛衫立体造型的艺术表现力和视觉冲击力,使得毛衫的穿着效果更加丰富多变。

Forming principle of pleated fabrics on flat knitting machine and its application on sweater design are introduced. The producing technologies for a variety of pleated fabrics are analyzed, such as the different distance or size pleat achived by changing the courses of full needle rib and jersey construction, different color pleat achived by increasing the number of knitting yarn, double-sides pleat achived by changing needle bed of jersey construction, partial pleat aehived by changing the stitches of pleats and so on. At last, the key points for the production of those pleated fabrics are put forward to. The concave-convex effect of pleated fabrics on flat knitting machine can provide designer inspiration in sweater design and expand the artistic expression and visual impact for sweater. Finally it will make sweaters much more variable.