服装缠绕褶纸样设计研究

Study on the Pattern Drafting Design of the Garments' Spiral Pleats

针对缠绕褶纸样结构的设计难点,本文以褶裥的平面结构设计原理为基础,以人体结构为依据,借助立体裁剪及服装CAD软件对缠绕褶的结构设计进行研究。通过衬衫纸样设计实验,分析了缠绕褶结构设计采用立体裁剪与平面裁剪相结合的要领与技巧。研究结果表明,将繁杂的缠绕褶转化为平面的成衣工业纸样,可借助立体裁剪的方法灵活直观地进行结构造型处理;立体裁剪与平面结构相结合时,要处理好立裁部位与平面构成部位的拼合,修正所得坯布的拷贝纸样与平面构成纸样的成品规格,注意缠绕褶适宜应用的部位和方式,合理平衡好胸凸量,核对对应边的长短,调整线条的圆顺。该研究为缠绕褶纸样设计提供了理论依据。

Based on the pattern design principle of the pleats as well as the body structure, a research was made on the pattern of the garments＇s spiral pleats by means of draping and fashion CAD against the diffi- culties in the designing. Through the designing experiment of the shirt pattern, the aesthetic effect has been achieved by combining use of both the draping method and pattern drafting technique. The result of experiment showed that, the transforming of complicated designing for spiral pleats into industrial flat clothing pattern could be flexibly and directly operated by draping technology. In order to combine draping and flat structure, the three-dimensional cutting parts should well pieced together with flat parts, the trimmed size of the copy paper of grey cloth and flat clothing pattern should be corrected, the handling po- sition and way should be paid attention to, the thoracic volume should be balanced reasonably, the corre- sponding edge length should be checked equal, and the lines of the pattern drafting should be adjusted smooth~ The study provided a theoretical basis {or designing the garments~ spiral pleats.