水环境变化与江南莼群落的发展历史

On the Water Environmental Changes and the Development History of Brasenia Schreberi Community in the Regions South of Yangtze River

中国的美味莼菜对水环境有着敏感的反应。历史时期,江南莼菜的产区随水环境变化而变化。优质莼菜先在吴淞江地区出现。在六朝与唐宋时期,莼菜与松江鲈鱼相结合,形成最具江南特色的代表性风味。随着宋代以后的水质变化,吴淞江地区的美味莼菜大大减少,而在鉴湖、湘湖与西湖等地,优良的水质产生美味的莼菜。到近代,由于水环境的变化,湘湖莼菜几乎消失,只有西湖莼菜和太湖莼菜的种植得到了一定的维持。

Chinese delicious Brasenia schreberi is sensitive to the changes of water environment. In the historical periods, the regions of Brasenia schreberi production south of Yangtze River had been changed with water environment. Delicious Brasenia schreberi firstly appeared in Wusong River. In the Six Dynasties and Tang and Song Dynasties, the combination of Brasenia schreberi and Songjiang sculpin had been the most representative flavor in regions south of Yangtze River. With changes of the water quality of Wusong River area since Song Dynasty, the delicious Brasenia schreberi in Wusong River area was greatly reduced, and in the regions of Jianhu, Xianghu and West Lake, because of the excellent water quality, there was good taste of Brasenia schreberi. In modern times, due to the changes of water environment, Brasenia schreberi in Xianghu almost disappeared; only in West Lake and Tai Lake, Brasenia Taihu planting still has been maintained in a certain amount.