清朝羽翎制度渊源考论

Origins of Qing Dynasty Imperial Peacock Feather System

每个朝代的衣冠之制,不但是权力的象征,而且事关帝国的合法性与皇权的神圣性。古代帝王在自己的冕服上所寄注的思想、意志、情感一览无余。古代羽翎作为冠冕佩饰,一般是帽后飘摆。据目前所见文献记载和考古发现,羽翎作为配饰刚开始固有其等级象征意义,但未成定制。汉代文献记载,从战国时代赵武灵王到秦汉皇帝,皆有将羽毛赐予武将作帽盔装饰以示英武之举。北朝时期出现了用山雉尾条装饰头盔的情况。元明之际朝鲜的李朝流行的汉语教科书中也出现了鸬鹚羽毛制成翎子以做装饰的记载。到了明代,官服冠冕始缀天鹅翎。清初的文献记载从侧面证明羽翎佐饰冠冕的观念仍存在。清代羽翎作为冠冕佩饰,带有深深的萨满文化烙印。在古代经学礼制构建视野中,冕制流变始终重视"义本礼经",这也是清朝正统意识和新政心态的重要体现。其冕服制度设计深受入主中原的少数民族政权服制经验和制度创建程式的影响。花翎作为官服配饰也体现着奖惩的示范意义,有着重要的制度规范导向。

Chinese imperial costume systems were developed to denote the supreme power, legitimacy and sacredness of the ruling class. Feather decorations are part of such systems. Surviving literature and archaeological discoveries indicate that in ancient times feathers were given hierarchical implications but not yet institutionalized. Han dynasty documents record that feathers were given as rewards to adorn generals＇ helmets. During the Northern Dynasties, pheasant feathers were used on helmets. Records about decorations made of cormorant feathers have been found in Chinese textbooks （contemporaneous to the Yuan to Ming dynasties） used during the Joseon dynasty in Korea. By the Ming dynasty, swan feathers were adopted on official uniforms. Costumes with peacock feather decorations in the Qing dynasty show clear Shaman influences. The changing imperial costume systems reflect the core of the Confucian etiquettes. Imperial costume system of the Qing was created by referring to other ethnic minorities that had established regimes in central China. Peacock feathers as accessories were an integral part.