含木棉纤维牛仔面料的开发与服用性能研究

Development and Wear Ability Study on Kapok Fiber Denim Aabric

本研究采用纯棉纱线作经纱与木棉/棉混纺纱线交织,设计开发木棉/棉混纺牛仔面料,并对生产过程织前工序、织造过程、丝光后整理各工艺关键技术进行分析,通过对面料基本结构参数、透气性能、毛细效应、物理机械性能等分析实验数据对比坯布与丝光成品面料性能差异。丝光整理后,面料结构更为紧凑,透气率降低,面料润湿性能有所改善。经向断裂强力和断裂伸长率增大,纬向断裂强力和断裂伸长率下降且其强力降幅高达31.8%。而经向撕破强力略微降低,纬向撕破强力提高26.0%。丝光整理后纤维间的抱合力减少,面料耐磨性是降低的。最后对丝光成品面料进行GB/T 18401-2010(B类)服用安全性能测试评估,木棉/棉丝光成品面料均达到FZ/T 81006-2007的各项牛仔服装服用安全性能标准要求。

The paper designs kapok/cotton blend denim fabric which is made of cotton warp yarn and kapok/ cotton weft yarn. The critical technology including the preparing process, the weaving process and mercerized finishing process was discussed. By experimental data, the performance difference between gray cloth and mercerized fabric was obtained. This article includes basic structural parameters, vapor permeability properties, capillary effect and mechanical character. It was found that after mercerized finishing, the fabric was more compact and the air permeability was down, meanwhile wetting properties were improved. The breaking force and elongation at break of the warp were increased. The breaking force and elongation at break of the weft were reduced and breaking force reduced by 31.8%. Meanwhile the tear force of the warp was down and the tear force of the weft increased by 26% As a result of mercerizing finishing, cohesion between the fibers was reduced and the fabric resistance to friction was worse. Finally by testing and evaluating the wearing safety performance of the kapok/cotton mercerized denim according to GB/T 18401 -2010 （B） , it could reach the standards of FZ/T 81006 -2007.