植物靛蓝染色历史及其发展

Indigo Dyeing History and Its Development

靛蓝是提取自含靛植物的染料,在世界范围内都有着悠久的使用历史,在传统染色中占有重要地位。在文献研究的基础上,介绍了世界各地主要的制靛植物,梳理了靛蓝染料在中国和欧洲的使用历史,总结了其应用领域。分析认为:木蓝、菘蓝、蓼蓝和马蓝为主要的制靛植物;靛蓝在中国的应用经历了从直接染色法到还原染色法的过程,发展出独立的靛蓝业;欧洲人一直坚持使用其本土制靛植物生产的菘蓝,但欧洲的菘蓝贸易仍被提取自木蓝的靓蓝的大量进口所冲击;植物靛蓝可以用于纺织品上染、建筑用涂料、绘画用颜料、化妆品和药品。

Indigo,which is extracted from plants containing indole glycosides,has been used for thousands of years in the world and plays an important role in transitional dyeing.Based on literature research,this paper introduces the plants from which indigo can be extracted,sorts application history of indigo dye in China and Europe and summarizes its application fields.It is believed that indigo could be extracted from indigofera tinctoria,lsatis tinctoria,polygonum tinctorium,strobilanthes cusia; the application of indigo in China has experienced the process from direct dyeing method to vat dyeing method,and independent indigo industry develops; European people have persisted in using woad from native indigo,but import of indigo extracting from indigofera tinctoria in quantity greatly impacted woad trade in Europe; indigo can be used in fields of textile,decorations,sculpture,painting,cosmetic and medicine.