古代美味菌油考论

A Study of the Delicious “Junyou” in Ancient China

用油贮存食用菌食品的方法可追溯至宋元之际的浙江天台地区,但油只是作为一种贮存介质。明末云南和福建一带流行的把食用菌熬成的"油",并非真正意义上的脂质油,而是液化的菌体,成分复杂,以糖类和蛋白质为主,亦有少量脂肪。清代乾隆年间云南一带流行的通过蒸制浸润过卤水的鸡而获得的油,其成分乃是真正意义上的菌体内的油脂。晚清时期出现于苏州的熬制菌油方法,当从云南或福建传播而来。

Using oil to store fungus foods was a method of storage which could be traced back to the late Song and early Yuan period, in today＇ s Tiantai, Zhejiang province. But the oil was just storage medium. In the late Ming dynasty, the method of boiling edible fungi to “oil”, prevailing in today＇ s Yunnan and Fujian, could only be applied to obtain liquid fruiting bodies rather than real oil. The components in the liquid were complicated, containing mostly sugar and protein, and a small quantity of fat. Another method of gaining oil, prevailing in the reign of Qianlong, was steaming the fungus Termitomyces eurhizus, which had been immersed in salt water beforehand. The oil obtained in this way was the real oil. Besides, the method of boiling edible fungi to oil emerging in Suzhou in the late Qing dynasty should be transmitted from Yunnan or Fujian.