宋代女性“服妖”现象探析

“Fu Yao”Phenomenon in Song Dynasty

服妖自古有之,兴盛于宋代。宋代主要表现在违背社会风俗、不合礼制及民众对政治的不满等方面。其原因:宋代手工业发展,服饰种类繁多,人们对服饰要求也越来越高;动乱和战争使人们将部分原因归罪于"服妖";程朱理学的影响使人们将服装粉饰看做"服妖";辽金等少数民族使宋人对服饰呈现既效法又排斥的心态;历史的思想积淀使然。

“Fu Yao”（strange attire） has been in existence since ancient times and flourished in Song Dynasty. The main features of “Fu Yao”are its violation of social customs, its inconformity with etiquette and the dissatisfaction of people to the politics. There are five major reasons for the phenomenon. First, with the development of the handicraft, there were types of clothing in variety catering for people’s increasing demands. Second, people blamed turmoil and war upon “Fu Yao”. Third, influenced by Neo-Confucianism people saw clothing decoration as “Fu Yao”. Four, people both followed and repelled costumes of the minority, such as Liao and Jin. Five, its existence stemmed from the accumulation of historical thoughts.