局部编织工艺在针织成形服装中的创新设计

Innovation Design of Partial Knitting Technology in Fully Fashioned Knitwear

基于电脑横机局部编织工艺,从针织成形服装的结构设计、组织设计,以及结构和组织相结合设计3个方面,提出新的设计理念,并开发了具有独特风格的花型组织和服装款式,如褶裥立体造型、特殊边缘设计,以及局部编织与彩条组织、正反针组织、提花组织、嵌花组织等的组合设计。本文所提出的局部编织技术在成形针织服装设计中的创新思路,为局部编织工艺的应用开拓新的设计空间。

Based on the partial knitting technology of computerized flat knitting machine, the paper puts forward a new design concept for fully fashioned knitwear from three aspects, including the structure design, the organiza_tion design and the combination. In addition, it develops some new kinds of structure and clothing styles with u_nique appearance, such as pleated fabric, edge design, and the partial knitting technology combined with color-striped structure, fleximesh fabric, jacquard and intarsia pattern and so on. The partial knitting technology present_ed in this paper can provide an important reference for the innovative design of fully fashioned knitwear.